The Nikonos is a legendary series of cameras that was designed specifically for underwater 35mm film photography. I’ll give you a quick overview of these cameras and a few tips to get the best results.

I use these cameras for ocean, surf, and travel photography, just like some of my favorite photographers did back in the 60’s and 70’s.

There are 5 nikonos cameras to choose from and the prices vary.

Versions I, II, and III are fully mechanical, with no electronic parts, and share the same body style.

Versions IV and V have auto exposure, a built-in light meter, and a few other improvements.

I like the older mechanical cameras because they are built to last and if you flood them, chances are they will still work. 

If your just starting out, save some money and pick up one of the older cameras (I-III).

When it comes to above water shooting, you have two lens options , the 35mm and the 80mm. 

The 35mm rarely ever comes off my camera, and the wider focal length makes zone focusing easier.

If your shooting the 35mm you will need to get a lot closer to the action to fill the frame.

If you’re not quite ready to sit in the impact zone, try shooting the 80mm for a pulled back shot.

With a longer focal length, you can hang out on the shoulder and still get some cool angles.

This focal length also keeps you out of the way of surfers while still capturing the action from a safe distance.

If your strictly shooting underwater, you have a few more options, including a 28, 20, and 15mm. These are optically corrected for underwater shooting only.

Eventually, I will do a full write up on Underwater shooting because there is so much to cover, but i mainly want to talk about above water shooting for now.

If you want a great resource for underwater shooting, check out one of Jim Church’s books on the Nikonos.

Settings

Your settings will correlate directly to what you’re shooting.

The most important thing to consider is Aperture because these cameras use a zone focusing system. When opening the lens up wider than f8 , it becomes really hard to nail focus unless set to infinity. 

On a bright sunny day, shooting action , i will use a 400 speed film, set my Aperture to around f11, and shoot at least 250th or 500th of a second shutter speed. 

At f11 you can set your focus scale to be in the range of around 6ft to infinity but adjust to whatever works for you.

At a 1/250 shutter speed with subjects moving across the frame at close distances, you will get some motion blur, so it’s best to use 1/500 if you have enough light.

The Nikonos III maxes out at 1/500 and the Nikonos V goes up to 1/1000 of a second.

If you are using the Nikonos IV or V, you can take advantage of using aperture priority and let the camera choose the shutter speed. This is great for static objects but for action, I always shoot in manual for full control of the shutter speed.

With these cameras shooting 1 frame per second, it’s all about timing, especially with surf photography.

For the best results, track your subject in the viewfinder until they fall into the range of distance you’ve set on your zone of focus, and shoot.   

Try not to fumble around with your settings too much, you’ll get better results if you concentrate on composition and timing.

If you plan to shoot in the ocean theres a few key accessories to have.

First is a wrist strap, these cameras don’t float so you need a way to attach it to yourself in case in comes out of your hands when you get smashed by a wave.

I like these dakine fin savers. If you need something more heavy duty theres a few companies that make better wrist leashes for larger professional housings, check out aquatech.

If you’re in surf conditions, swim fins are a must have. I like DAFIN because i found these are most comfortable for me. Whatever you choose, make sure it fits snug and is comfortable.

The last accessory is a light meter.

Verisons I-III don’t have built in light meters, so its nice to have the option to carry one.

These are great if your in mellow conditions or shooting underwater, you can wear it around your neck easily. If your treading water in heavy surf, don’t bother. Having this around your neck or tied to you becomes more of a hassle and/or danger in larger surf.

Take a few exposure readings before you head out into the water. This will give you an idea of what settings will give you accurate exposures.

While in the water, try not to veer far from the exposure readings you took on land. You can open/close your apeture/shutter 1-2 stops, depending on how the light is changing to compensate.

Water drops on your lens are the most common cause of ruined photos with the Nikonos. Before you head out, clean your lens thoroughly with a clean cloth.

AVOID FINGERPRINTS ON YOUR LENS. Don’t touch the glass, the oil on your hands will stick to the lens, and attract water drops.

Maintenance is so important to keep these cameras up and running for years to come. 

After every session, soak the camera in fresh water, especially after being in the ocean. I usually need to clean my main O ring because i shoot in shorebreak a lot, and sand gets stuck in there.

Use a microfiber cloth to get it all cleaned up, then re-apply a fresh coat of silicone grease before storing it away for the next session.

You don’t need to fully detail your camera after every session, just pay attention to your o rings, try to keep them as clean as possible to avoid the chance of flooding.

Those are some essential tips and accessories that have worked for me over the years.

Water photography is challenging, especially when shooting film at one frame per second.

Stay patient, keeping shooting, and when you nail a good shot, it will be worth it.